Here it is the 6th of May already and I'm just making my first post for the month. Time is flying - it has been busy around here and no signs of letting up for a while. This month is packed with graduations, and various gatherings with family and friends - so postings may be a bit sporadic this month.
Arrrrghhh, I can't believe it - I forgot to tell the contractor - do not install mirrors above the sinks. You know the kind...plain contractor grade mirror, glued to the wall. Yep, that's the one. Well today we're going to learn how to take this plain powder room mirror...
and frame it to present a more finished look.
Molding (available at hardware store)
Product for hanging mirror (e.g., Liquid Nails read on for how I used Velcro)
4 - Corner Clamps
Measure the width and height of your existing mirror. Next determine how you want your frame to fit on the mirror. I recommend you add at least 1/4 inch on all sides of the mirror for the frame to extend over the edges; 1/4 inch added to each side would add 1/2 inch to the length of each board.
Picture frames have 45 degree mitered corners. In order to make a perfect frame you will need to:
(a) Cut the top and bottom board to exactly the same size with a 45 degree angle on all ends
(b) Cut the left and right boards to exactly the same size with a 45 degree angle on all ends
If either the angles or the lengths are off by even by a smidgen of a degree or a fraction of an inch - it will show when you assemble your frame. Yes, smidgen is a technical term. Measure and mark each of your boards according to your desired measurements. Remember, the thickest part of your molding will be the inside edge of your frame.
To cut your boards and make your 45 degree corners, you can use either a hand miter saw like this.
or an electric miter saw. The electric saw will give you a more precise cut but either one will do.
Regardless of which type of saw you use, you always want to make sure that the thickest edge of your molding is tightly secured (clamped) against the back edge of your saw. When using tools always perform a safety check before operating.
The thickest part of your molding will be the inside edge of your finished frame. Double check the angle of your cut prior to sawing - after cutting the shortest edge should be along the thickest edge of your molding as shown in the photo above. If using an electric miter saw make sure the saw blade is rotating at full speed prior to lowering the blade to cut through your wood. You may want to practice on a spare piece of wood to see how the blade, your measurement marking and the laser are aligned so that you cut precisely.
I prefer to cut all of the right ends then all of the left ends - that is just so I don't have to reset the angle of the saw each time.
Once you have all four pieces cut, verify that the left and right sides are the same length and same angle. Then make sure your top and bottom pieces are the same length and same angle. This can be done by holding each piece against it mate - first holding the inside edges together then the outside edges together. If the pieces match, you are ready to assemble your frame.
I use corner clamps to give the corners an extra squeeze while your glue sets. If you don't have corner clamps, you can get them at the hardware store they cost about $3 a piece and can significantly improve the look of your finished frame.
Loosen the corner clamps enough to freely place your wood into the clamps. Remove one of the short pieces and put glue on both ends. Place the short piece back into the clamps, line up your corners and tighten the clamps - remove excess glue (as directed on your glue instructions). Repeat on the other end - glue, place, line up and tighten. Recheck all of your corners to make sure nothing shifted.
Keep clamped for at least 30 minutes or as instructed by your glue. Follow the directions on your glue for drying time - mine required 24 hours before putting an stress on it.
Once the glue is dry, paint both sides of the frame. Both sides??? Yes, the edge of the backside of the frame will reflect in your mirror.
Allow the paint to thoroughly dry and you are ready to hang. You can select from various products (such as Liquid Nails) and glue your frame right to the mirror. I really didn't want to permanently mount the mirror - see how close this mirror is to the wall corner, well it can be a real pain when it comes to painting that corner. Besides, I may want to change the color or style of the frame. Soooo, I decided to try Velcro. You may not be able to use velcro with all moldings; however, my molding has a ridge on the backside that allowed me to place a little strip of Velcro in each of the corners. Since the Velcro sits in the ridge, it still allows the frame to sit tightly against the mirror. So now I can just remove the mirror when I am ready to paint either the frame or the wall and simply rehang it.
Check out those corners!!! Mr Niche says they are so good that they look fake.
And finally - here is the finished look. The mirror was painted with Oil Rubbed Bronze to match the light fixture. The light was originally brass before getting an update with Oil Rubbed Bronze. Learn how to update your brass fixtures with spray paint here
Here's the side-by-side comparison of before and after. This project is well worth it. It all costs less than $20 and it definitely improved the look in this powder room.
Now, I have two other contractor mirrors that need framed.